"Deserves to become one of the London restaurants of the decade". The Times UK.
"Possibly the best new restaurant in London.." AA Guide.
" ...one of the most talented chefs of his generation..." Caterer and Hotelkeeper.
"The highlight of my culinary year, a roasted veal sweetbread with pea puree - a masterful riot of soft, sweet flavours." London Newspaper.
"A symphony of savours, orchestrated with expertise and devotion." Gourmet magazine.
"The dishes exhibit an unforced originality, gentle and distinct flavours, fantastic deftness". Johnathon Meades, The Times. Jan 2000.
"it is perhaps ironic that the best Snails I have ever eaten should be cooked by an Englishman in France". Table Talk. Eating Out.
"The food is exquisite, stunningly created and presented". Tico Times Costa Rica.
"To eat the food of one of the most talented young chefs to come out of Britain, you must now go to France. .....casually sublime food.... Fay Maschler. Evening Standard. 3***/3.
"Neat's Smoked Foie Gras. Utterly, utterly delicious. Sometimes all a restaurant needs to keep people coming back is one gobsmackingly terrific dish and this one alone would do it". Telegraph Magazine. 2001.
"Neat has a brilliant understanding of modern cuisine, incorporating a respect for tradition and curiosity for the new". Homes and Gardens Eating Out.
"Neat delivers innovative, exquisitely cooked French food with ultra-delicate taste." Tatler Restaurant Guide.
"The food is electrifying, the most powerful expression of a chef's personality and talent since Marco-Pierre White opened Harveys, but with more originality and consistency". Telegraph Newspaper after Pied-a-Terre's first week.
Harpers & Queen’s Best
http://www.thedailymeal.com/eat/interview-richard-neat-british-master-chef-who-started-over-costa-rica
"Perhaps the most important restaurant to ever hit the Costa Rican dining scene...." Sherman's Travel, Costa Rica Guide
RICHARD NEAT - TALK TO THE CHEF. CHEF Magazine.
“I was afraid of waking up one day having spent my entire life in a basement kitchen in Charlotte Street”
Heralded as possibly the greatest chef of his generation, Richard Neat trained in the UK and France with some of the greats including Raymond Blanc, Marco Pierre White, and Joel Robuchon during the late 1980s.
He opened Pied-a-Terre as Chef and co-proprietor with David Moore in 1992 to un-precedented acclaim, winning his first Michelin star a year later, and his second Michelin star at just 29 years old.
So where do you go from being described by the UK’s most jaded restaurant critics as ‘masterful’ ‘exquisite’, ‘genius’, ‘electrifying’? In Richard’s case, you leave your successful London restaurant, and travel the world via a highly successful stint for the Taj Group in India; a consultancy role in Moscow, running a rhiad in Marrakesh, and opening an eponymous and award winning restaurant in Cannes – where you are the first British chef to receive a Michelin star in France.
Since 1996, Richard has been in Costa Rica. He runs a small but exquisite restaurant which is housed in his partner Louise’s antiques store in Sabana Norte, in the centre of San Jose. With just five tables which are scattered partly around a garden with a trickling fountain or beneath the aisles that house the antiques, Richard's Park Café is a perfect vehicle for his cooking and his chosen life.
Chef Magazine interviewed Richard whilst he was in London for a short trip at his chosen location Bistro Galvin Deluxe on Baker Street.
Q: Why did you quit Pied-a-Terre?
After five years there, I found I was afraid of waking up one day having spent my entire life in a basement kitchen in Charlotte Street. I just wanted to go away and have some adventure, experience the world
It wasn’t that I wanted to do anything specific, but I have a natural curiosity for life and I wanted to accumulate as many life experiences as possible. I think this is really crucial. I remember it was Michael Caines who asked rhetorically: ‘Where is Richard Neat?” but I’ve had an interesting life and being a successful chef and restaurateur in London is not the only litmus for success in life – there is more out there than begging for alms off the guides and food critics.
I’ve lived in Moscow for two years, I’ve lived in India, Morocco, now Costa Rica, and it has been very exciting.
On top of this, we visit the UK every year to see family and friends, and we go to Asia for a month, so that my partner can source the antiques she needs: India, Indonesia, Vietnam, China.
We close the restaurant whilst we’re away, and our fabulous restaurant manager looks after the antiques store.
Q: So you’re travelling, but you’re cooking too? How important is it to keep on cooking for you?
No one could accuse me of being hardworking but I’m really dutiful and fanatical about doing something right, and this is what makes me work 17 – 19 hours a day when I cook, because I want to do something I want to be proud of.
But it’s something I can do in India, or Marrakesh, and it’s not contingent on any particular guide seeing what I’m doing, or showering of accolades. You have to be courageous enough to mark your own homework, do your own appraisals.
Q: Have you been influenced by what you’ve eaten on your travels?
It’s not in my character to be influenced by other cuisines. My background is in French gastronomic cooking, I served eight years apprenticeship in classically influenced restaurants, and I feel that there is a greater integrity with this style of food – I love Thai and Chinese food but it would be ridiculous for me to try and attempt it.
Q: Is there anything you miss about being outside the London restaurant scene?
Some of the people; once in a while I like to see Warren who was my head chef at Pied-a-Terre and about once a month I feel nostalgic about how easy it is to get the breadth of produce that you can get in the UK.
Q: Tell me about the Park Café?
This is a restaurant that I’m really proud of. In Costa Rica, I inherited a clientele of the hacienda antiques house. It’s primarily the antiques store and its garden where I run my five table restaurant. But having Park Café is one of the most exciting periods of my life. I have some fantastic friends there and Costa Rica is a really super country to live in.
The menu isn’t casual, it’s the food that I know how to make and enjoy doing – finding the best produce whether it’s foie gras, duck, lamb, scallops, or great fish, and using the skills I brought with me to try some local dishes. I am doing more raw food though, ceviches are obviously very popular in Latin America.
The clientele I’ve inherited from the antiques store are super-sophisticated people, they travel a lot, so the dishes I have always made go down well with them. The Latins like to be at the table, in conversation, drinking good wines, they’re very appreciative of my food.
We open about four days a week, because I have reached a stage in my life when I don’t have the same energy as I had in my twenties, and my partner doesn’t want to be married to a ‘restaurateur’. We have a beach house we go down to at weekends. We want to enjoy this life that we have.
One of the best things about running a small restaurant is that I get to know my diners. At Pied-a- Terre we had plenty of regulars, but I didn’t know. Maybe after I’d served the last petit fours if the night I might see a regular leaving, it was only when I moved to South of France that I started making friends amongst our clientele. In Cannes there are ¼ million Brits who live around there, and many don’t work, so they’re happy to sit with us until 2.00 in the morning and get to know them.
In Costa Rica all my friends I met because they bought antiques though Louise, then started coming to the restaurant, and I have the time to spend talking to them
Q: Do you see continuing this role for years down the line, or do you want to do something different?
Louise would be happy if I never opened a restaurant again, and I have plenty of other things to keep me interested.
I’ve written a book ‘Observations from the Kitchen’. It has 12 chapters and 12 favourite recipes. Each chapter features a conversation between me the cook, and 12 people whose lives have touched mine. The chapters cover topics like ambition, contentment, hubris, and chess threads its way through the narrative as I’ve played chess since the age of four and it’s a very important part of my life.
I am publishing this myself, and you can get it online at www.parkcafecostarica.blogspot.com
If it’s well received I want to do more writing in the future, I’ve already started 120,000 words for a book of fiction. I’m grateful to Louise and to Costa Rica for affording me the time to do it. There is a better pace of life here, and I’m convinced that the Latins have a duty to teach us barbaric Anglo Saxons how to live.
We also have a TV idea around a pop-up tropical kitchen which would relocate to some of the amazing natural beauty around Costa Rica; volcanoes, primary rainforest, great coastal scenery, we’d make it really spontaneous setting up a barbecue in a wheelbarrow and eating at an improvised table.
Quick questions:
Favourite ingredient – I can get excited over anything that’s really good, like live scallops, pungent ginger, super-fresh fish it’s a pleasure to use beautiful produce.
Signature dish – Snails rolled in Powered Morilles with Asparagus Tagliatelle
Favourite restaurant – Bistro Galvin Deluxe, a restaurant you feel really comfortable in, with really good staff. I like what the Galvins do, it’s flawless
Fondest memory – Nothing prepares you for the beauty of Florence.
Exquisite Park Café transitions back to small plates, dinner-only
When he opened the restaurant in 2006, Neat created a sensation with a menu of small plates of intricate haute cuisine, the likes of which Costa Rica had never seen. Now, the globetrotting, author and chef has also created a true “menu dégustation,” a tasting menu to give diners “the opportunity to experience more tastes and combinations.”
Though each dish is small, the choice is large, with 17 delectable “tastes” currently appearing on the menu. Restaurants usually require the whole table to order a dégustation, with each dish chosen by the chef. So you are out of luck if you can’t persuade your dining companion(s) to join you in the tasting menu. The beauty of Neat’s new menu is that you design your very own dégustation.
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